Article and Photography by Tim Du Vernet

Wooden boats frequently take centre stage in Muskoka’s history. However, Muskoka’s aeronautic history has represented life-changing moments in the region as well. With the spirit of early explorers, airplanes expanded access to much of Ontario and Muskoka. Many of the small lakes seen from the sky are still inaccessible to those without wings.

When does a story on flight to Muskoka begin? Perhaps with the service of two recipients of the Victoria Cross among numerous other medals. William Bishop and William G. Barker, fighter pilots from the First World War, were Canada’s most decorated servicemen. These men, legends of aviation combat, with Bishop’s record of 72 victories and Barker’s of 50 victories, would meet in November of 1918 and become life-long friends (Barker died at 35 in a plane crash).

They began one of North America’s first aviation charters, based out of Toronto, called Bishop-Barker Aeroplanes Ltd., operating a fleet of aircraft from Toronto Harbour to destinations that included Muskoka, about a century ago.  A crash landing at the CNE is thought to have been one incident leading to the demise of the company.

One of the pilots who flew for the Bishop-Barker Aeroplanes Ltd. was Phillip Clarke Garratt. Born in 1894, he is celebrated for the creation of short take-off and landing as well as the “Beaver” aircraft, “the most successful work aircraft in Canadian history.” Garratt was known to fly his Beaver to the cottage on Lake of Bays.

Pam Garratt Dunlop, the granddaughter of Phillip Garratt, made her first trip to Muskoka in a picnic basket as a newborn, aboard her grandfather’s plane. She explains that Phillip Garratt was the managing director of De Havilland Aircraft of Canada Ltd. at the time and had a yellow Beaver aircraft with his initials on it for his use. In the 1950s, aircraft were rare and Garratt Dunlop remembers the sight of the plane flying overhead bringing waves from boaters and skiers. Her grandfather’s Beaver aircraft is still in use, nearly 70 years later, on the west coast.

“Papa would leave the office for Muskoka in the plane dressed in his suit and tie and change into cottage work clothes when he would arrive,” Garratt Dunlop recalls. As a result of his influence, she is surrounded by pilots in the family. Garratt Dunlop feels summering or living in Muskoka is special but having a plane is amazing.

The concept of flying passengers to Muskoka continues with several firms offering such services. Many Toronto-based private pilots avoid the snarls of the north bound highway by flying a float plane to Muskoka. Private helicopters are becoming more commonplace with those who wish to pass on the traffic. Private flights to and from Muskoka to urban areas in Ontario as well as sightseeing tours were provided by Cloud Air Services, out of Mortimer’s Point, for decades.

An extensive display at the Muskoka Airport recognizes “Little Norway,” a training hub that provided skill development and supports to Norwegian airmen who were preparing to reclaim their occupied country. Crown Prince Olav officially opened the facility in May 1942. Rumours floated that the base had to be moved to a relatively remote area due to the spirited nature of the servicemen. Many a Muskoka wartime wife told of dancing with the Norwegian servicemen during the summer.

The servicemen now living in history books are not the only memorable feature of Muskoka’s airport. Muskoka continues to maintain a fascination and devotion to aeronautic endeavours.

An early demonstration of this interest was at the Muskoka Lakes Association Antique Boat Show of 1978. Bob Purves, who founded the concept of the bi-annual boat show set a very high standard at the boat, automobile and air show of 1978, held at the Muskoka Lakes Golf and Country Club. He flew his own float plane to the cottage in Brackenrig Bay, Lake Rosseau. His son, Robert Purves, remembers it was quite an achievement to co-ordinate all the military and vintage aircraft. 

The 1978 show was likely the first visit of a CANSO aircraft to Muskoka. The plane was also joined by several historic aircraft, one of the most dramatic being a Hercules with jet assist that swooped down nearly to the water’s surface and pointed itself to the sky and fired the rockets. The whole scene blew people off the gunwales of their boats.

On Canada Day this summer, one model of the CANSO, the PBY-5A was celebrated at the Muskoka Airport with marching pipe bands, speeches and a tour from a Second World War veteran. The day before the celebrations, the CANSO flew in with far less drama than the Hercules but with no less anticipation and excitement.

The CANSO is a late Second World War aircraft that served with eleven RCAF squadrons. They operated from both coasts and were employed in coastal patrols, convoy protection and submarine hunting. RCAF No. 162 Squadron, when stationed in Iceland and Scotland in 1944, accounted for the six German U-boat sinkings made by RCAF CANSO. When in service with the RCAF, she was identified as RCAF 1190, now in civilian life she is identified as C-FNJE.

Despite what may seem like large numbers of production, military aircraft have a short lifespan and few survived in operational condition. The plane that landed in Muskoka survived many lifetimes from active service in the Second World War, forest fire fighting and shipments to remote northern areas. C-FNJE was used in the construction of the Mid-Canada Line, a line of radar stations across mid-Canada to provide early warning of a Soviet bomber attack.

The particular CANSO that flew into the Muskoka airport was on a cross-Canada tour celebrating her restoration. In 2001, while taking on water for fighting fires in the Inuvik area, C-FNJE sank in about 100 feet of water. Seven years since she sat on the lake bottom, Don Wieben spear-headed the restoration and the “Save the CANSO” project was born. From deep in a remote bush, which took three weeks to get her out, to flying again, represented a huge restoration accomplishment that was made possible with public support.

PBY-5A would not exist today had it not been for the committed efforts of the team at Fairview Aircraft Restoration Society (FARS) in Alberta. FARS grew from the six original crew members to a not-for-profit organization with over 100 staff. The  CANSO has strong connections to Muskoka with two members of the Wieben family looking forward to meeting with family member Kate Oldham, who lives in Bracebridge.

The Canada Day celebration of the special CANSO aircraft attracted the participation of every level of government, the cadets, the Muskoka pipe band and Bracebridge Town Crier, Bruce Kruger who was emcee for the celebrations. Special guest, Ted Price, a Second World War veteran, was honoured for his service. Bud Purves, former Muskoka Airport Director and Len O’Connor, CEO of the airport attended the celebration as well.

Bud Purves, also the son of Bob Purves who first brought a CANSO to Muskoka during the bi-annual boat show and who was appointed the inaugural board chair of the airport board, has been a float plane pilot for about 50 years. 

“I flew float planes out of Red Lake Ontario as a bush pilot when I was in my early 20’s,” explains Bud Purves. “That was 1971 and 1972. By 1983 I had saved enough money to buy my own airplane. Later I owned a Cessna 180, 185 and a twin-engine Cessna 310.”

The float plane gave Purves quick access to Muskoka from his home in Toronto. “Every Friday I flew to the cottage,” he shares. “I also flew from the cottage to places like Montreal and Kingston to take the kids to university. Every time I landed in my bay on Lake Rosseau, I thanked my lucky stars for having that wonderful opportunity to drop a plane into my bay. I never lost that feeling of magic nor that feeling that when flying nothing can be taken for granted when one enters a cockpit.” 

The landing and take-off of a float plane or amphibious plane from the water is always a dramatic moment and a signature experience in a Muskoka bay.

“While flying from Muskoka I always tried to respect other cottages from where I took off,” says Purves. “It was quite interesting to me when after I gave up flying to Muskoka, several people contacted me and expressed disappointment that they would not be able to sit on their dock at 5:30 Friday afternoon and see my plane circle the bay before landing or watch the plane side slip over the trees to drop down in to my short bay.”

The float plane is symbolic of a freedom to explore the distant regions of Canada. “Flying up north in the bush and understanding the fascination that people have to see a float plane slide onto a northern lake makes me think that going north, navigating the weather and landing on pure water is a sacred thing and is somehow in the DNA of Canadians,” explains Purves.

The small bay on Lake Rosseau where Bud landed was also home to another float plane. Ken Penney owned a Piper Cub, which he purchased in 1968. The Penney family has deep roots to Muskoka, extending well over a century and spanning many generations in the Brackenrig Bay area and locals well remember the Penney sawmill that operated in the bay.

Lynn Ellis, the sister of Ken Penney remembers his joy of tying the canoe on to the pontoons and flying into a little lake well off the beaten path. Ellis explains she would join Penney occasionally. On one trip, she remembers the plane landing in a patch of wild blueberries. “It took several tries to get her back in the air, possibly from the load of blueberries they were carrying.”

When a boat needs service or gas there are marinas to drive to. But is there an equivalent for float planes? Gord Bain, who has piloted a wide variety of aircraft, including serving with the Ministry of Natural Resources as a helicopter pilot, notes Smoke Lake, Algonquin Park, is the only water base for float planes in the area.

Helicopters can be ten times the cost to own and operate, explains Bain, hence the need for bush and float planes as well. He believes Muskoka likely represents the largest collection of privately owned helicopters, with as many as 15 on the lakes.

Bain, who spent a good part of his career involved in resource management at the MNR, cautions that while surrounded by the luxury of summer life, it is easy to forget the significant role small aircraft and helicopters have in protecting cottages from forest fires as well as serving the wildlife.

The Canada Day celebrations at Muskoka Airport were an opportunity to recognize Muskoka’s connection with aeronautic history, which spans two world wars, bush planes such as the Beaver and this special CANSO. For the cross-country tour C-FNJE embarked on, she needs two co-pilots, two flight engineers and four support members. The team of eight made three stops in Ontario, including Trenton for the air show and Muskoka for Canada Day. Saving C-FNJE was truly a family affair for the Wiebens, with nearly every adult member of the immediate and extended family involved in flying.

Big smiles prevailed when the CANSO landed and Bracebridge resident Kate Oldham was hoisted in celebration by Don Wieben, her older brother, and co-pilot Gary Wieben, her nephew. Bev Wieben, Oldham’s daughter-in-law, holds the role of tour and event co-ordinator. Don Wieben is responsible for much of the inspiration behind the rescue, including finding and the restoration of the CANSO C-FNJE. Don as engineer, feels confident that the team’s restoration work has left the CANSO and its historic importance to the next generation.

Bev Wieben emphasizes the deep commitment the crew and supporting members of the team have toward the CANSO project and the history of the airplane. The group raised money to cover fuel, parking, landing fees, oil and supplies for the plane. The aircrew accommodations were covered, however, the time spent on the tour was unpaid. The ground crew fully paid their own significant expenses to join the air tour and bring the CANSO out to the communities visited.

In a testament to the interest in the history of this vintage aircraft, hundreds of people lined up and waited their turn to see inside and speak to the crew. Vintage aircraft, such as CANSO C-FNJE, are living history, reminding those who have the opportunity to see and even fly in them, of the adventurous spirits of those who flew before them.